Thereby came about the ingenious plan since embroidered shawls were exempted from taxes and were attractive. It is believed that this was when he came up with the idea of copying the patterns on the shawls using thread and needle. The taxation and sale prices on them, made these shawls less sought after in the foreign markets. An Armenian trader called Yusuf Khan came from Constantinople to Kashmir in 1803, to purchase woven shawls. He then went ahead and embroidered the outline with coloured thread, which gave a beautiful effect. A local legend claims that the idea for embroidering came from a raffoogar or darner called Ali-Baba, who lived in the time of the Afghan ruler Azad Khan.Īli-baba noticed the imprint of a fowl’s feet on a plain white sheet. Embroiderers are said to have copied the patterns on these shawls. Zain-ul-Abadin (1400-1470) was believed to have introduced fine weaving to the valley. Rezkar, Petit-point – by both men and women Men are said to be mostly working on Kashmiri embroidery while women prepare the yarn. A thick hard cushion or a wooden plank at an angle, act as backrests. They sit with their knees up, with their back against a wall. ‘Zangvaitth’ is the posture in which the embroiderers sit while working. When the thimble is not used, the finger is dipped in mustard oil to enable the smooth movement of the stem. This is used to push the needle into thick cloth. The craftsmen use a thimble called Nyatth, on the fourth finger of the right hand. There are very few or no left-handed craftsmen. Training centres are another commonly seen feature, which have come up in large numbers owing to the growing demand for embroidered products.Īn interesting and peculiar fact about Kashmiri craftsmen is that – almost all craftsmen embroider using their right hand. The work is carried about privately in households or in groups at the Karkhanas / workshops. Yarns and/or plain shawls, which are dyed and treated are distributed for embroidering. The various threads and raw materials too are sourced from various places, and put together to form vibrant patterns. No single piece is ever done wholly by one person. The Kashmiri embroidery is said to go through many skilled hands before completion. The floral motifs with their inexhaustible display of colours, variegated birds, luscious fruits, majestic mountains, shimmering lakes – all find a place in Kashmir embroidery’ ~ Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay “It is essentially a child of landscape and bountiful nature and is, therefore, as varied in it’s richness, as superb in its beauty”.
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